![]() Its been 20 months using this system, and one of my cells is leaking. ![]() That 200A Li battery solves a lot of charging problems.īut trouble is brewing with my batteries. There some days where it would go down 7-8% at night and come back 7-8% in the daytime.ġ50Ah seems to last about 5 days in the winter sun. I never got around to hooking up the Iota 120v shore charger.ĭon’t worry too much about the Noco for now.ġ50Ah + 100w would last about 10 days in the summer with solar. I rarely switch the DC charger to “on” because its kinda “no fun” when there's nothing for the solar panels to do. I added a switch to turn off the 60A DC charger because after a few minutes the batteries were always full. I've nothing to report WRT the alternator being over-stressed. The BMS shows the alternator charging at 56 amps. Main draws are truckfridge, Propex and a few LEDs. If you don't have an electric fridge what are you going to do with all that battery power?ġ50Ah of LiFePo4 laid flat under the driver seat. Posted: Sun 6:33 pm Post subject: Re: House/Solar/Electrical layout help While the max output for the DCC50 is 50A, I plan on using it only at 30A while driving and upping to 50A when I connect Solar at the campsites. One great thing about the DCC50 is you can limit the max charge current using the renogy DC Home app. I have contacted Renogy to see what they suggest for having shore power connected to the system. Not that I don't trust you, but I already own it and would like to use it. I am going to do some more research on using the NOCO. Posted: Sun 3:38 pm Post subject: Re: House/Solar/Electrical layout help Even taking just 25A from the alternator (as when driving in sunlight) can tax 130A alternators. You need a high output alternator, capable of 140A continuous to be able to both power your van and to charge the LFP battery when there's no solar at night. Get a proper voltage limited high current power supply, such as:Īlso, the DCC50S may suck too much current for your setup. It'll get confused with what the battery needs and although it will eventually charge the house battery it'll take absolutely ages even with no load. It's an 'intelligent' charger - it doesn't expect your battery to be connected to anything else at all, whether other charging sources or loads. I repeat, the Noco won't work except intermittently at low current when connected to the starter battery (Alt input) with the DCC50S in circuit and the same (but for slightly different reasons) if connected to direct to the house battery. Posted: Sat 6:30 pm Post subject: Re: House/Solar/Electrical layout help ![]() I am still reading up on all the different devices.ġ) If I go with the NOCO, does it matter if the NOCO uses the chassis as a ground, or should it be tied with the House ground busbar?Ģ) Would the battery monitor work in this configuration? Nothing is on the left side of the shunt, so I assume it will (never used one before). The controller would be set to lithium battery if I read the manual correctly. Not sure the NOCO would know to keep charging after the starter is full. I know the controller charges the starter battery first then sends current to the house battery. Not sure what the difference would be to connect directly to the starter battery and then have another wire directly from the starter to the controller. I will have to do some test on the voltage drop with and without the busbar. Posted: Sat 1:49 pm Post subject: Re: House/Solar/Electrical layout help If this remains in the van permanently, it'd be a good idea to replace the multi-turn variable resistors with presets, to prevent accidental changes to the voltage output. With the output voltage limited to 14.4V, and current unlimited, this will happily fully charge the battery when connected to shore power. 'Smart' chargers just don't work in that configuration for lots of reasons, I can expand if you really want to know.īetter to use a power supply (the ones suggested for LiFePO4 top-balancing work well) connected directly to your 200Ah battery. I wouldn't use the Noco battery charger, especially connected to the Alt input rather than direct to the battery. Posted: Sat 10:05 am Post subject: Re: House/Solar/Electrical layout help "To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevensonīuilding a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus) '87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD My understanding is you want no places for voltage drop between the 'controller' and the house battery. I would recommend running the pos and neg from the 'controller' directly to the house battery rather than through the blocks as shown. Posted: Sat 8:34 am Post subject: Re: House/Solar/Electrical layout help 1967 L633 VW beetle (currently being restored.slowly)
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |